Source: Friends of Mount Sinai
Monastery
August 15, 2016
Rejoice, fiery throne of the Lord God;
Rejoice, the sacred vessel that is filled with
manna.
The entrance to the Sinai Monastery is through a portal guarded by the Panagia of the Burning Bush.
Like families anywhere, monastic
communities have their public and private challenges,
and turn their best face to the world. Unstudied
contentment reasserts its hold over the Sinai
fortress each year however, as monastics converge on
the Monastery from all directions, drawn back for the
celebrations of the Dormition of the Theotokos from
near or far flung hermitages throughout the
Mediterranean world.
At the Cairo branch monastery that serves as transit hub
for the desert, quietly reflecting on the buoyant air of
anticipation, an old-time monk spoke for all,
“Panagia gathers us in to her Feast.”
And in Athens, the courtyard of St. Catherine’s
branch church fills on the holy day with all manner of
self-proclaimed non-believers, atheists, and many of the
afflicted who otherwise confine themselves to
society’s peripheries.
Everyone knows where home is on the great Feast day of the
Mother of God.
Well into his sixth decade of travelling by night and
working by day in service to God and man, the Archbishop
and Abbot of the Monastery may arrive last of all, just in
time to enter Justinian’s great basilica for the
start of the agrypnia, the all-night Liturgy in
honor of the Feast. In more peaceful times, the church
would be crowded with pilgrims, many of whom returned year
after year. Most however reached Sinai after attending the
Feast day services in Jerusalem at the empty tomb of the
Theotokos in Gethsemane.
St. Catherine’s visitors typically
categorize themselves as ‘pilgrim’ or
‘tourist’. Well-aware that mankind’s
deepest longing is for God, monastics recognize the
fallacy of such distinctions. All arrive here
“hoping to experience the stillness that exists
between the soul and God,” His Eminence
Archbishop Damianos of Sinai has said. A hermit monk
explains this is equally true whether expressed by
exuberant hoots disturbing the night on the steps
leading to the Holy Summit, or by anxiously searching
for the entrance to the Monastery church in the same
black night – hoping to arrive before the service
begins, when the angels do.
Much has been made of the Sinai Monastery’s
preservation of the precious artifacts of ancient
Christianity, and also of the unbroken ages of its
peaceful co-existence with neighbors in a non-Christian
world.
Sinai’s 3rd century women’s hermitage of Saint Epistimi
Less noted is that the Sinai represents
the only center of ancient ascetic spirituality open to
women – tourist, pilgrim, or monastic. In a
sphere where women have often had to struggle to prove
themselves much as in civilian life, female monasticism
in Sinai dates from the third century, apparently to
the inceptions of the current monastic community
itself.
Naturally isolated by remote desert, ascetics seeking
stillness never needed to fabricate a barrier to worldly
civilization by sealing the Monastery off from visits by
families. Of course such a step would never have been
contemplated by the guardians of a holy pilgrimage of such
literally Biblical proportions. By the time the world
resolutely landed on their doorstep with the construction
of asphalt roads and tourist infrastructure, Sinai monks
had long accustomed themselves to a double burden:
combining the rigors of eremitic life with hospitality to
those seeking deeper understanding of God.
The Burning Bush grows until today outside the chapel built by Saint Helena in the 4th century.
After all, the Holy Mountain capped by
the Peak of the Decalogue – of the Ten
Commandments – is the mountain of the knowledge
of God. And the Burning Bush, which still thrives in
the Monastery courtyard, the path to that knowledge
– for it burned with the same fire of divine
Wisdom that later shone forth upon all creation from
the “Bush of the Holy Virgin.”
Let us ever applaud and praise the Lord God
Who was seen of old on the holy mount in glory,
Who by the fiery bush revealed the great mystery of
the
Ever-virgin and undefiled Maiden unto the Prophet
Moses.
Aflame but not consumed by the fire of divinity just like
the Bush itself, the Holy Virgin is the fiery pillar
guiding the faithful through the darkness of this
world’s trials. The Israelites were led through the
Sinai by fire at night and a cloud by day, and the Holy
Virgin spreads the protection of her shelter over the
world more broadly than a cloud. Under it, her love
gathers together not only the monastics of Sinai, but all
the faithful who glorify her Son, the God-man who saves
the world from sin as He saved His All-holy Mother from
the corruption of death at her Dormition.
Sinai icon of the Dormition of the Theotokos from the latter half of the 13th century.
Monasteries are not islands adrift on a
sea beyond the wave length of stress. Tides break over
their shores. They are havens only to the degree that
one has learned to take refuge in the will of God
– and until then, places of fierce struggle.
Against the relentless enemies of one’s own
egotism and pride, the invincible weaponry of salvation
belongs to the Most Holy Theotokos. One says the
Jesus Prayer at all times, for as Sinai’s Geronta
Pavlos says, “Prayer is the sun of our souls,
without which we cannot live any more than we can
survive without the physical sun.” But in crisis
– ask any monastic: The heart that was pierced
with a sword at the cross of her Son rushes to help, as
Father Pavlos describes, with the reflexive speed of a
mother who springs forward to snatch a baby from
falling. Power against evil is not lacking to the first
person whose human nature was joined to the divine, the
Mother of God who was also the first person to see and
touch the resurrected Christ (a subtlety of the Gospels
elucidated by Saint Gregory Palamas) – and to
speak with Him, as she does unto the ages on our
behalf.
Rocks are found on Sinai bearing the image of the Burning Bush.
Not surprisingly, the holy ground where
the mystery of the divine birth was revealed to Moses
in the Burning Bush radiates the grace of the Most Holy
Theotokos. Sinai monks are not ones to wax effusive
over such perceptions, and emotion is not a monastic
virtue; but seek the blessing of the monastery Abbot
and Archbishop, and that proffered will be
Panagia’s. He and the monks return home through a
portal guarded by the icon of the Panagia of the
Burning Bush. The Bread of Life is prepared in the
Monastery bakery under an icon of the Holy Virgin of
Sinai lit by an oil lamp. And following the daily
Liturgy, under another icon of the Theotokos the
Archbishop will preside over the Monastery’s
legendary hospitality in a salon whose featured display
hosts one of the granite rocks found on Mount Sinai
bearing the image of the Bush that prefigured the
“soul-endowed” one.
The first chapel at Mount Sinai was built to the Mother of
God by Saint Helena in the 4th century, its Holy of Holies
placed directly over the roots of the Bush which still
grows just outside. The chapel commemorates the
Annunciation of the Theotokos, the living “Ark of
the Covenant” who contained the uncontainable Word
of God within her womb.
A lamp is kept lit in the Monastery bakery before an icon of the Virgin Mary of the Burning Bush.
Saint Helena also built a tower for the
monks which survives until today as the
Monastery’s oldest structure. Inside the tower is
the private chapel of the Archbishop of Sinai,
dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos. There are
twenty intimate chapels inside the Sinai Monastery,
each one’s Byzantine icons illumined only by oil
candles or tapers made from fragrant beeswax. One of
the most beautiful is he Archbishop’s chapel with
its traditional red vestments and seventeenth century
icons of Christ and the Theotokos adorned with silver
halos.
A lower floor of the same tower contains a much smaller
chapel of Panagia. This was but a humble storeroom when
the monks ran out of olive oil. Pressed into service, the
famed anchorite George of Arselao was asked to pray over
Sinai monks liturgize at the Dormition of the Theotokos in the chapel dedicated to the Feast, located in the 4th century tower built by Saint Helena.
vats. “We had better pray
over only one, said the hermit, otherwise the room will
not be able to contain all the oil.” True
enough, the oil gushed up “as though from a
spring” at his petition, and continued flowing
until all the vats were filled. Saint George ascribed
the miracle to “our Holy Mistress”, and the
storeroom became the chapel of the Panagia of the
Life-giving Spring, where Divine Liturgy is still
celebrated every Wednesday in memory of
the miracle.
Outside the Monastery enclosure there are more chapels
honoring Panagia. An historic one marks the spot on the
Holy Mountain where the Theotokos appeared to the monks.
The fathers were about to leave the Monastery in
desperation after running out of food. Ascending to the
Holy Summit of Sinai one last time to pray, their
Protectress met them on the path dressed as a local woman,
and sent them back to find a caravan at the Monastery
entrance unloading abundant supplies. The mysterious
benefactors were described as a “princess and her
trustee” now vanished, who the monks realized were
the Holy Virgin and Moses.
The ascetic literature also records a vision in which
Sinai hermit John the Sabbaite found himself on Golgotha,
being reproved by the crucified Saviour for having
condemned another by exclaiming “Ouph!” upon
hearing of his failing. Standing in the same spot and
turning to his right, John would have encountered a wall
fresco of the Panagia of the Burning Bush, reminding
pilgrims of the indelible connection between Jerusalem and
Sinai in the person of the Theotokos – the bridge
from Old to New Testaments, from earth to heaven,
ignorance to knowledge, from the threat of death, to the
Source of life.
Containing the stone tablets with the Ten Commandments,
the gold-plated Ark of the Covenant was carried by the
children of Israel from Sinai to God’s dwelling
place in Jerusalem, according to the instructions given to
Moses on the Holy Mountain.
Panagia Oikonomissa (Stewardess) marks the spot where the Theotokos appeared to the monks on Mount Sinai.
Carrying a miraculous icon of
“the Ark that was gilt by the Spirit,” to
her dwelling place in the kingdom of her divine Son,
monastics process in double lines through the
passageways of the Old City of Jerusalem each year
during solemnities marking the Dormition Feast.
The reverberations of the great bell of the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre toll as if from the center of the
earth during the commemoration of the Apostles’
procession that bore the body of the Virgin to her tomb
in Gethsemane. Now, however, the tomb is empty –
for the All-holy one was taken to heaven with her body.
The crush of pilgrims following in the procession is so
great that one cannot even see the ancient steps
underfoot, but no matter; no one can fall for the press
of the crowd, supported by the body of Christ in a vivid
icon of the salvation bestowed by the Church on the
faithful who honor His All-pure Mother.
The celebrations in Sinai are equally
focused during the agrypnia which lasts until
dawn. As the Archbishop processes through double lines
of monks awaiting his entrance just inside the darkened
basilica’s massive cedar doors,myriad oil
lamps flicker green, blue, and pink from their crystals
far above, blinking like stars of the firmament in
clandestine attendance on the monastic
‘party’ about to begin – an entire
night suspended in the joy of the kingdom about to
receive its heavenly Queen.
A monk skilled in the obscurities of ancient liturgical
practice, understood perfectly perhaps only to himself,
lights and snuffs thick candles at appointed times in the
services. Held aloft by massive candelabra resting on the
backs of brass lions in roguish attitudes, their
alternating light and darkness contribute added mystery to
the unearthly proceedings.
With midnight long departed, the same
monk then lights first one tier, then another, of tall
beeswax tapers set into majestic silver chandeliers.
And when he reaches with a long staff to spin each one
in a different direction while mystical chant blends
its harmonies with heavenly incense, time and space
lost to infinity, one no longer comprehends whether he
is in heaven or on earth … but one
certainty emerges at the same time with overwhelming
clarity: while “the stillness existing between
the soul and God” in this life constitutes its
eternity, tribulations do not ... the
exaltation of the All-holy Theotokos provides the
unassailable evidence.
The heavens were astonished and stood in
awe,
and the ends of the earth, Maid, were sore
amazed,
for God appeared bodily to mankind as very
man.
And behold, your womb has proved to be
vaster
and more spacious than heaven's
heights.
For this, O Theotokos, the choirs and
assemblies of men and angels
magnify your name.
The empty tomb of the Holy Virgin in Jerusalem
Quoted texts from the Dormition services’ 13th
century Great Supplicatory Canon to the Most Holy
Theotokos.
Thanks to Massimo Pizzocaro for the use of his photos.